It’s one of Greece’s most important Ottoman monuments. Imaret means ‘poor house’ though it is anything but. The impressive complex of lead-domed structures was built in 1817 by Mohamed Ali as a kulliye, a place for Islamic instruction, on top of an older imaret. A mixture of curved surfaces and spindly chimneys, enclosing three citrus orchards – one with a cistern – it is a magical place. Following centuries of mishaps and neglect, it was recently renovated by a well-known tobacco family to become a symbol of the city’s history and a modern monument.